Pacific Grove is one of my favorite places in the entire world. Sure, loving Pacific Grove is easy ’cause it’s beautiful, but it’s more than that. Pacific Grove is a small town with an even larger heart, where locals’ pride in their institutions and their history swells just like the ocean that surrounds it. It’s full of gorgeous coastal landscapes, creative cuisine, and charming Victorian-style houses. And, most importantly, it’s the one place where I truly feel at home.
From exploring its scenic beauty to devouring local food and drink, here’s how to spend an incredible weekend in Pacific Grove.
Where Is Pacific Grove, Anyway?
You’ve probably figured out that Pacific Grove is in California (since it’s in the title of this post), and if you’re a fan of the HBO show “Big Little Lies,” you might know that it’s right next door to Monterey. For more context, Pacific Grove is also roughly:
- 73 miles (or a 1-hour and 20 minute drive) south of San Jose;
- 120 miles (or a 2-hour drive) south of San Francisco;
- 188 miles (or a 3-hour drive) from the California State Capitol Building in Sacramento, and
- 318 miles (or a 5-hour drive) from UCLA’s Moore Hall, where I met Mr. Five O’Clock in a pretty intense biology midterm, in Los Angeles.
So What Qualifies *Me* To Write About Pacific Grove?
First things first. Why should you listen to me, some travel blogger clacking away on her keyboard over in Brooklyn, when it comes to how to spend your time in Pacific Grove (and Monterey)? How can you be certain I’m not just some fast-walking, fast-talking New York interloper here?
Longtime readers know that my happy place will always be Pacific Grove.
May I humbly present the following reasons:
- I grew up in California — the San Francisco Bay Area, to be precise — and have visited Pacific Grove and Monterey annually since I was a child. That includes yearly visits since we’ve moved to New York.
- My parents are now residents of Pacific Grove (which they affectionately call “PG”), so I’m privy to the latest restaurant openings and goings-on about town. Plus, they filmed scenes as extras for Season 2 of “Big Little Lies,” so clearly they have the inside scoop. 🤣
- And, most importantly: I know about Squid.
Uh, What Do You Mean, Squid?
Let me explain. Every morning at breakfast, Pavel’s pastries in hand, my father will open a copy of the Monterey County Weekly and share the day’s news. Without fail, he’ll animatedly read the paper’s “Squidfry” column, authored by Squid (real identity: unknown).
Squid, who always refers to “Squidself” — never using gender pronouns, how sneaky — is the brain behind such gems as this column where “Squid decided to ooze over on Dec. 14 to a Fort Ord Reuse Authority board meeting to see – depending on your viewpoint – how the sausage gets made, or, how quickly paint dries.” Squid’s columns, replete with snarky humor, make even the most boring local politics enjoyable.
So between being briefed on PG’s current events and my cumulative 30+ years visiting the city, I’d say I know a liiiiittle more about Pacific Grove than your average bear sea creature.
You never know what you’ll see in Pacific Grove, but it will always be magical.
How To Spend An Incredible Weekend in Pacific Grove, CA
Look, I’m not going to pretend this is an exhaustive list of everything there is to see and do in Pacific Grove. (Side note: if you’re a Pacific Grove local, we’d love to hear your tips and advice in the comments!) What I can offer, however, is our favorite local hangouts and activities that we do every time we visit PG; hopefully, you’ll enjoy them too.
So without further ado, here we go!
Day 1: Getting Settled & Relaxing
After arriving in Pacific Grove on a Friday night and settling in — though we have our own place to stay, I’ve heard good things about Seven Gables Inn and the Gosby House Inn — all roads seem to lead to Peppers.
We’ll always stop by Peppers for dinner when we’re in Pacific Grove.
Not literally, of course, but it’s a great spot for a Friday night dinner. Their Latin American cuisine and emphasis on fresh seafood always hits the spot (and don’t get me started on their amazing margaritas…SO GOOD). With its casual ambiance and appealing Southwestern-style decor, it’s a relaxing and welcoming place to start your time in PG.
Pro Tip ⇒ If you like to eat on the earlier side, I highly recommend calling to make a reservation, as this place gets realllly busy. Peppers is located at 170 Forest Ave. in Pacific Grove, right off of Lighthouse Avenue. For more info, check out their website at www.pepperspg.com.
If you’re a night owl, you’ll want to head over to Monterey to get your nightlife fix. Usually, though, we’ll go to bed early on Friday so we can get an early start for Day 2!
Day 2: Choose Your Own (Incredible) Adventure
We have three typical ways we’ll spend Saturdays while in Pacific Grove. Two out of the three involve walking (hey, gotta burn off those margaritas somehow), and one involves a car. I find Pacific Grove to be really walkable; in fact, 80% of the times we’ve visited, we didn’t use a car once we arrived in town.
But First… Breakfast!
Before you strap on your walking shoes, you’ll want to fortify yourself for a leisurely day of pounding the pavement. Pavel’s Backerei, located at 219 Forest Avenue, offers coffee and delicious baked goods (we see you, giant bear claw!) to grab and go. Since they’re closed on Sundays, you’ll want to hit it up on Saturday morning.
Feeling like a sit-down brunch instead? We love Aliotti’s Victorian Corner Restaurant (541 Lighthouse Ave.; www.victoriancornerpg.com). It’s been operating since 1977 and is the longest-running restaurant under the same ownership in Pacific Grove. Cool, huh?
Love the vibrant colors here.
I’m a sucker for the Eggs Benedict at Aliotti’s Victorian Corner Restaurant.
Option #1: Asilomar & The Inn at Spanish Bay
Filled up on your share of caffeine and sustenance? Good. Now it’s time to start walking!
The Asilomar/Spanish Bay walk we do involves butterflies, the salty sea air, fire pits, dogs, and red wine — pretty much all of the stuff that makes people feel all warm and fuzzy inside. It takes us 1.5-2 hours one way because we stop to take zillions of photos, but it can certainly be done much quicker. Here’s an idea of the spots you’ll hit:
Your first stop will be the Monarch Butterfly Sanctuary. Located at 250 Ridge Road, once you set foot in here, you’ll understand why Pacific Grove is known as “Butterfly Town USA.” Gaze through the telescopes, and you’ll see scores of beautiful monarch butterflies.
Need help spotting the monarchs? Museum docents are present every day in the sanctuary from 12 PM to 3 PM between November to February. (The best time of year to see the monarchs is end of November/early December, when the population is at its peak.) There’s no admission fee to visit the sanctuary, though donations are greatly welcomed!
Just unreal what you can see through the telescope.
Mr. Five O’Clock humors me by taking a butterfly photo and allowing me to post it. True love, I tell you.
After you’ve had your fill of butterflies, you can meander over to the Asilomar Hotel & Conference Center. It’s a scenic and comfortable place to stay, especially for families (legend has it that we stayed here when I was a child, though I vaguely recall this). If you head to the Social Hall (where guests check in), there’s a store with fun scarves and trinkets — and, should you need them, restrooms.
Once you’re done poking around the Asilomar Conference Grounds, it’s time to head on down to the beach.
Cross the road and you’ll hit Asilomar State Beach!
Stroll along the boardwalks of Asilomar State Beach at your own pace. If you’re anything like us, you’ll be stopping frequently for views like this:
Now do you see why this is one of my favorite places in the world?
Toward the end of the boardwalk, follow the signs and turn left to head up to the Inn at Spanish Bay. Upon arrival, it’s time to treat yoself! Grab a spot at one of their cozy fire pits; if you time it right, you can watch the sunset with a drink in hand (and see a bonafide bagpiper!).
Cozy fire pits at the Inn at Spanish Bay — one of our favorite hangouts.
Don’t be surprised if you make a furry friend or two while you’re here. Dogs are welcome at the outdoor patio dining areas at The Inn, though they need to remain on a leash or in a kennel.
And with views and drinks like these, why would anybody ever want to leave?!
Ahhh. This is the life!
Wine or cocktails at the Inn at Spanish Bay? Take your pick!
Pro Tip ⇒ For a different variation on this walk, you can head to Point Pinos Lighthouse instead of the Inn at Spanish Bay. It takes about 20-25 minutes to walk from the Asilomar Hotel and Conference Grounds to the lighthouse. Hungry? Check out Point Pinos Grill — their menu changes seasonally and word on the street is that they have a good happy hour.
Option #2: Monterey Bay Coastal Recreational Trail
Half of the time, we’ll head in the opposite direction and go to Monterey instead. We’ll take a route that looks like this:
We’ll walk over to Lovers Point Park and follow the Monterey Bay Coastal Recreation Trail all the way down to The Dali Expo, with plenty of stops in between. (If you didn’t stop, it would be about 50 minutes to traverse this 2.4-mile walk end to end.)
If you opt for this walk, I highly recommend grabbing brunch at First Awakenings (125 Ocean View Blvd, Pacific Grove; http://firstawakenings.net). Portions are hearty and filling — exactly what you’ll need to be walking all day. It’s also a 3-minute walk from your next stop, the Monterey Bay Aquarium!
Delicious brunch at First Awakenings
It goes without saying that you’ll want to visit the Monterey Bay Aquarium, the best aquarium in the world (in my humble opinion). I mean, who wouldn’t want to hang out with sea otters and penguins for a few hours? Right?!
As of spring 2019, adult admission costs $49.95. Plenty of posts have been written about the aquarium, its innovations, and its importance; I’ll simply add my strong belief that people should experience the aquarium at least once in their lifetime if they are able.
Priceless.
From the aquarium, we’ll walk over to Fisherman’s Wharf. Fans of “Big Little Lies” will recognize Paluca Trattoria as the Blue Blues Cafe, where Jane, Madeline, and Celeste regularly met for coffee and lunch. (Take your obligatory photo, but make sure to grab a bite here to support the local economy.)
Paluca Trattoria, where characters in “Big Little Lies” meet up for coffee and lunch.
Our final stop of the day is The Dali Expo. Formerly known as the Dali17 Museum, it’s the first permanent exhibition of surrealist artist Salvador Dali on America’s West Coast.
Though Dali is probably my favorite artist (not sure what that says about me?), learning that he lived in Pebble Beach during the 1940s was a huge surprise. You can see over 580 of his works here, from original etchings and mixed media to rare sculptures… and clocks. Lots and lots of damn clocks.
It’s high time you visit The Dali Expo! Ha ha.
Wise words from the man himself — it’s okay not to be perfect.
Pro Tip ⇒ Don’t want to walk all the way back to Pacific Grove? You can take the bus back from Fisherman’s Wharf to Downtown Pacific Grove. Regular fare is $2.50 on this route. If you want to stay overnight in Monterey during your weekend, Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa is worth the splurge.
Option #3: Wine Tasting, Cocktails, & Breweries, Oh My!
For those who’d rather spend the day exploring the area’s beverage options, we got you! (Though this itinerary requires a car, we know you’ll either have a designated driver or pace yourselves, right?)
Wine
If you’re an oenophile, take a 30-minute drive over to the Carmel Valley to sample some of the best California wines around. We always stop by Joyce Vineyards (1 E Carmel Valley Rd, Carmel Valley, CA), as we’ve been longtime fans of their pinots and their outdoor patio.
Other nearby wineries we enjoy include Testarossa, Parsonage, and Joullian. In fact, Testarossa is quite literally next door to Joyce, so there’s no excuse not to visit!
Joyce Vineyards is our favorite stop for wine tasting in the Carmel Valley.
The family that wine tastes together lives longer… probably? (Sir Campsalot is on the left.)
Cocktails (And General Merrymaking)
Every good wine drinker eventually needs food in his or her stomach, so we suggest Baja Cantina & Grill (7166 Carmel Valley Rd, Carmel, CA 93923). Its kitschy decor and extensive menu options have thoroughly won us over. Just watch out for the “Blue Tarantula” cocktail — it’ll sneak up on you!
Left: Part of the Baja Cantina’s exterior; Right: The infamous Blue Tarantula cocktail that snuck up on me
Beer
If beer is more of your jam, Monterey has plenty of options. We’re partial to two spots in particular: Fieldwork Brewing Company and Alvarado Street Brewery & Grill.
Fieldwork Brewing Company (560 Munras Ave, Monterey, CA 93940) actually boasts multiple locations throughout Northern California, including Berkeley, Napa, and Sacramento. The Monterey location features a boisterous European-style beer garden, and it’s perfect for warm weather. (Also, it’s right by Peet’s Coffee and Chipotle, so your caffeine and food needs are probably met, too.)
Beer flight at Fieldwork in Monterey, with amusing beer names like “Virtual Planetoids” and “Streams of Coffee.”
Take a short 3-minute walk from Fieldwork and you’ll happen upon Alvarado Street Brewery & Grill (426 Alvarado Street, Monterey, CA 93940). This place also has a fantastic outdoor beer garden, though you’ll want to arrive early to score seats. Come for happy hour (3-6 PM), and stay for more pints of their Lotus Dependent, their newest single hop West Coast IPA (7.0% ABV).
Alvarado Street Brewery is a must for beer lovers!
And Finally… Dinner Time!
My all-time favorite dinner spot in Pacific Grove is Passionfish (701 Lighthouse Ave, Pacific Grove; https://www.passionfish.net). I love them so much that I *might* go so far as to say I’d have my last meal here. Standouts include their scallops, spicy fish stew, and the chocolate truffle torte. Be sure to save room for Nancy’s buttery buttermilk biscuits — they’re out of this world!
The scallops at Passionfish are divine.
Jeninni Kitchen + Wine Bar (542 Lighthouse Ave, Pacific Grove; https://www.jeninni.com) serves up scrumptious fare, from charred octopus and prime steak to eggplant fries and crispy lamb shanks. As expected, Jeninni’s offers a carefully curated wine list as well as beer and cocktails (which use vermouth). Be sure to hit their happy hour from 4-6 PM!
“The PG Spot” cocktail (featuring Contratto Aperitif, elderflower, rosemary, cranberry bitters and soju) at Jeninni Kitchen + Wine Bar.
Red House Cafe (662 Lighthouse Ave, Pacific Grove; http://www.redhousecafe.com) is always a popular option; aptly named, guests dine in a historic red Victorian house and nibble on dishes like roasted chicken or capellini pasta.
If gorgeous seaside views are what you’re after, then the Beach House Restaurant & Bar (620 Ocean View Blvd, Pacific Grove; https://beachhousepg.com) is where you’ll want to be. Want an insider secret? If you’re willing to dine at off hours — as in 4-5:30 PM daily — you can get crazy good deals: $9.90 entrees and $3.90 house wine or amber ale.
What Else is New in PG’s Dining Scene?
Here’s some insider intel for 2019 regarding Pacific Grove restaurants:
Best new restaurants in downtown PG opening this year (IMHO) are Poppy Hall (http://poppyhallpg.com), Wild Fish (http://www.wild-fish.com), and Monarch Pub & Restaurant (on Facebook)!
Did you know that Pacific Grove is home to a number of notable residents? Famous denizens who have lived in Pacific Grove, CA include:
* John Steinbeck, author of The Grapes of Wrath, East of Eden, and Of Mice and Men
* Janis Joplin, musician and iconic rock star
* Joseph Campbell, mythologist and author of The Hero with a Thousand Faces
* Frank Zappa, musician, composer, activist and filmmaker
Day 3: Explore Lighthouse Avenue
Our last day in PG is somewhat of tradition: Toasties for brunch and a leisurely stroll along Lighthouse Avenue, Pacific Grove’s main drag.
Toasties Cafe (702 Lighthouse Ave., Pacific Grove) is pretty much a PG brunch institution. Every time we go, it’s packed — probably because of their popular olallieberry pancakes. It’s a no-frills, no-fuss kind of place, but sometimes that’s just what you need to relax.
Love shopping? The Quill (553 Lighthouse Ave., Pacific Grove; http://the-quill.com) is always my pick. I *might* be known to disappear here for 20 minutes at a time, much to the chagrin of our male family members. No matter: The Quill is where I discovered Blue Q socks, the makers of my irreverent and delightful “My Cat is Cool as F**k” socks, and I am forever in their debt.
It’s a simple equation, really: Blue Q’s feisty socks + scarves galore = Heaven.
I’m now the proud owner of the green scarf from The Quill (second from the left).
Literary lovers will want to stop at BookWorks (667 Lighthouse Ave, Pacific Grove; https://www.bookworkspg.com) to peruse their shelves and sip on coffee. Open since 1980, BookWorks is owned and operated by a long-time local family.
Lazy Sunday with coffee and books at BookWorks in Pacific Grove.
It’s also worth squeezing a movie in at Lighthouse Cinemas (525 Lighthouse Ave.) in Pacific Grove if you have time. After all, the town itself has a cinematic history — it was the filming location for Turner & Hooch with Tom Hanks and Junior with Arnold Schwarzenegger — so grab yourself some popcorn and settle in for the next installment of Avengers or Star Wars at this Pacific Grove institution.
Settle in for some first-run movies at Lighthouse Cinemas in Pacific Grove, CA.
And presto! Way to wrap up an incredible weekend in Pacific Grove!
So when are YOU booking your next trip to Pacific Grove?
If you liked this post, check out:
Essential Info:
Where should you stay in Pacific Grove, CA? Check out all options here.
Want a guidebook for the Monterey area? Check out this one or this one.
What else have I written about California? Read my posts on California here.
What camera did I use for this post? I used our Olympus EM5 Mark II camera with this lens and (and my cell phone).
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All opinions are my own, and all costs were paid for by me. Given the amount of times we’ve drunk margaritas at Peppers in Pacific Grove, I’d say we are healthily contributing to their economy.
Angelica
I’ll have to put Pacific Grove on my bucket list now!
Julianne
Absolutely! It’s a spectacular place. Hope you get to visit soon! 🙂
Emily Hines
Yep, this looks like my ideal weekend 🙂 I’ve only spent time in San Francisco and would love to see more of California!
Julianne
Absolutely! You’ve gotta check out Pacific Grove and the Monterey area next time you’re in town — they’re not too far from San Francisco 🙂
Pia
Very cool post! I´ve to Pacific Grove a couple of years ago, while I drove the Highway No. 1. Unfortunately, I stayed for a night and half of the next day only. At least, I visited the Butterfly Sanctuary and went down to the beach! A great place to stay for a while!
Julianne
Hi Pia, I’m so glad you made it down to Pacific Grove! 🙂 Sounds like you hit some great spots — the Butterfly Sanctuary is awesome, and so is the beach. Hope you make it back sometime!
Elaine Masters
I’ve only been through Pacific Grove and had no idea there was so much to enjoy there. How happy for you and your folks that they’ve taken up residence. The Aquarium has gotten so expensive! But they do great work and their Seafood Watch program is fantastic. Cheers to a long visit sometime and I hope for sun.
Eileen
What an amazing spot! I’ve been to Monterey but missed this corner of California. Everything looks so fun, especially the free butterfly sanctuary. I wouldn’t mind a glass of California wine either by that fire pit! Love this guide.
Jenn and Ed Coleman
Great to see your work again Julianne. Kiddo is going to school right up the road from there in Santa Cruz so we really ought to visit more. We really want to to the aquarium and I couldn’t agree with you more that they do a great job on conservation. Can’t wait till Big Little Lies starts up again. What a cast!