Without a doubt, the travel-related question I’m asked most frequently is “What should I do during my upcoming trip to Japan?” If I had a dollar for every time someone asked me this question, I could probably fund my next flight to Tokyo! Well, you asked, and we listened: hot off the press, we’ve finally written our Japan itinerary — full of glorious food, sights, and, of course, booze! Here’s how to spend an incredible two weeks in Japan.

But First: A Word About This Japan Itinerary

First, this itinerary skews toward food and, especially, drink. (It’s five o’clock here as I type this, after all.) We tried to include a good mix of cultural sights, restaurants, and bars on our first visit to Japan, but if spending six hours gazing at the Sistine Chapel is your idea of an amazing day, this won’t be that itinerary.

Second, the amount of things to do in Japan is endless. So much so that we’re hoping to go back in Fall 2020 — and we likely won’t repeat very much of this itinerary! Of course we missed things, and we’d love it if you’d share your Japan sightseeing ideas in the comments below.

So without further ado, here’s some ideas for an incredible two weeks in Japan!

Curious about what surprised us while visiting Japan? Find out what you need to know before visiting Japan here.

How To Spend Two Weeks in Japan: A First-Timer’s Guide

Day 1: Arrival in Tokyo // Practical Matters

Once you arrive, it’s time to settle in and get your bearings! This might be hard to do after a 16-hour flight like we had (including a layover in Hong Kong), but the sheer adrenaline rush of a new adventure helped sustain us for a few hours.

Pick Up Your Pocket WiFi and Japan Rail Pass

Our first order of business upon arrival in Japan was picking up our Pocket WiFi. In our experience, having a Pocket WiFi was a lifesaver while traveling in Japan because it provided a fast, stable, and reliable internet connection. (No having to search for internet cafes for WiFi — yay!)

We recommend ordering your Pocket WiFi in advance; we used this website and paid $88 for 14 days of usage. We picked up our device at Narita Terminal 2 (though you can select different airports based on where you’re flying in).

Next up: getting our Japan Rail Passes. We used this website to order our passes about two weeks before flying into Tokyo; we elected to get the 14-day green pass ($550 per person in 2017, $587 in 2020). We swapped in our exchange order for the actual Japan Rail Pass at Narita Terminal 2.

Your own itinerary will determine whether or not you should get the Japan Rail Pass; with our itinerary, it was cost effective because we visited six different cities.

Pro Tip ⇒ Use the HyperDia app to find up-to-the-minute info on train schedules. Make sure to get a train that is on the Japan Rail Pass so it is included — otherwise you have to pay extra. The journey from Narita airport to Shinjuku train station in Tokyo is roughly 90 minutes.

Fishing For Dinner!

As a self-proclaimed lover of themed experiences and restaurants, I booked our first dinner at Zauo Fishing Restaurant in Shinjuku. Yes, it’s got a major aquatic theme going on, but it was also only a 10-minute walk from our hotel (laziness and jet lag won in this case).

The concept is certainly interesting: you literally fish for your supper. Once caught, you specify how you want your fish prepared (e.g., grilled, tempura, and so on). You have to eat the fish you catch — you can’t return it once you’ve caught it. Prices differ based on the type of fish you catch.

Overall, it was a little gimmicky, but the fish was cooked well and (obviously) couldn’t be more fresh. In hindsight, the idea of fishing for my own dinner wasn’t the best — I had to ask for help and felt bad seeing my meal alive before ingesting it — but Zauo is definitely working for someone out there: they opened their first U.S. outpost in Manhattan in October 2018.

Stay in Tokyo: We recommend Hotel Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku — book it here.

Day 2: Tokyo // Ramen, Temples, and Sushi, Oh My!

Start off your day right by eating ramen at Ichiran in the Asakusa district of Tokyo. Like many poor unfortunate souls, Very Uninformed Me thought that ramen was cheap, instant, and meant for budget-conscious college students.

How wrong I was.

Ichiran was our first exposure to *real* Japanese ramen, and though it wasn’t the only ramen joint we tried, it was one of our favorites. Dining in solo booths made for a relaxing, quick meal, and the ability to customize your ramen — from the noodle thickness to the spice level — is great in case you are very particular about your tastes.

From Ichiran, it’s a hop, skip, and a jump over to Senso-ji. This ancient Buddhist temple also happens to be Tokyo’s oldest. The temple was destroyed during World War II and subsequently rebuilt; as such, it’s a symbol of rebirth and peace to the Japanese people.

Take some time to explore Asakusa and the area around the temple. You never know what you might find! We happened to stumble upon Isokura Sake Brewery, which is worth a stop if you happen to be a sake lover.

Dinner at Sushi Ya was absolutely worth the splurge. The chef here was an apprentice to what is regarded as one of THE best sushi places, and it seems like he’s an up and comer in sushi. This was without a doubt the best meal we had on our trip. Definitely make a reservation here in advance — we somehow magically got in last minute due to a cancellation (our hotel called on our behalf), but it was sheer luck.

Stay in Tokyo: We recommend Hotel Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku — book it here.

Day 3: Tokyo // Food, Glorious Food!

Tsukiji Fish Market: Then and Now

We started out our third day in Tokyo by booking a private tour of Tsukiji Fish Market through govoyagin.com. Our tour started at 7 AM, just in time to see the vegetable auction (we couldn’t get in to see the famous tuna auction, which is why you need to plan in advance!):

Since our visit in October 2017, Tsukiji Fish Market’s inner market closed and moved to the new Toyosu Market in 2018. (This is the wholesale market, which offered only restricted access.) However, Tsukiji’s outer market, which features plentiful restaurants and shops, is still there and worth a visit. In fact, you can visit both markets in the same day if you wish!

Tokyo Ramen Street

Had your fill of sushi for the day? Need some more RAMEN? 🍜🍜 (Of course you do. Since ramen is now officially my favorite food, I can never get enough and therefore will sing its praises any chance I get.)

Tokyo Ramen Street — in the bowels of Tokyo station — is a ramen lover’s dream come true. With eight amazing shops along a single corridor, you’ll have some tough gastronomic decisions to make! It’s a little hard to find, but just look for the First Avenue Shopping Arcade. Station staff can also help point you in the right direction.

Bar Ben Fiddich

Nowhere was the payoff for being respectful more apparent than when we visited Bar Ben Fiddich, one of the world’s best cocktail bars.

In following Japanese bar etiquette, we sat where we were told, spoke quietly, and demonstrated genuine reverence for cocktail master Hiroyasu Kayama’s creations. By the end of the night, we’d been invited up to a coveted seat at the bar directly in front of where Kayama-san worked. It was like a tango of respect: once we proved that we weren’t just gaijin looking to get drunk, we were welcomed into the fold. It’s worth it: in our opinion, this is the best bar in Japan.

Late Night Food Cravings (You Know They Happen!)

Hungry after a night of drinking, or just a night owl? Make a late night gyoza run to Harajuku Gyozaro. It’s open until the mind-boggling late hour of 4:30 AM, and its gyoza are freaking delicious. These Japanese fried dumplings were some of the best we had during our two weeks in Japan.

Stay in Tokyo: We recommend Hotel Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku — book it here.

Day 4: Tokyo –> Hakone

And now for something completely different: an overnight getaway to Hakone! If you’re itching to soak in an onsen (Japanese hot spring) and take in stunning views of the iconic volcano Mount Fuji, you’ll be in heaven here.

It takes roughly 110 minutes to get to Hakone from Shinjuku Station in Tokyo (assuming you don’t get lost on the way). Because we had the JR Rail Pass, here’s the route we took:

• Take the JR Chuo line from Shinjuku station to Tokyo Station.
• Take the Tokaido Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Odawara station.
• Catch the Hakone Tozan Bus at Odawara and take it to the Kowakien bus stop.

If you arrive early enough, take some time to explore Lake Ashi or the Hakone Open-Air Museum. We arrived fairly late and spent the night exploring our resort.

Stay in Hakone: On our visit, we stayed at Hakone Hotel Kowakien, which is closed. It appears to have reopened as Hakone Kowakien Tenyu.

Day 5: An Epic Spa Theme Park in Hakone & More Bar Hopping in Tokyo

Yunessun Spa Resort

Think of Yunessun Spa Resort as a hot springs theme park, with baths of various liquids in place of rides. You’ll be soaking up the health benefits of red wine and coffee here instead of waiting in long lines for ferris wheels. The best part? Absolutely zero chances of vomiting up your lunch after reckoning with a rickety wooden roller coaster.

Get yourself a day pass and enjoy a wine-loving, coffee-guzzling tourist’s dream come true. Check out our honest review of Yunessun Spa Resort before you go.

Travel back to Tokyo in the late afternoon or early evening. Fancy another meal of ramen? Try Afuri Ramen: the yuzu in their broth sets them apart from other ramen joints.

Bar Hopping in Tokyo’s Ginza District

If you’ve got the energy after a relaxing spa day, it’s time to hit the town! Bar High Five is worth the trouble it takes to get in. This craft cocktail bar is routinely on “World’s Best” lists; staff have an uncanny sense of understanding just what cocktail you’ll fancy in that moment.

Bar Orchard Ginza is another craft cocktail bar in Tokyo’s glitzy Ginza district that’s worth a stop. Upon arrival, you’re asked to choose a fruit from the (plastic) display, and husband-and-wife team Takuo and Sumire Miyanohara will create a special cocktail just for you. Bonus points for their creative presentations (one of our cocktails involved a rubber ducky and a bathtub), but they can also make classic cocktails with just as much finesse.

Day 6: Travel to Kyoto

Time to leave Tokyo and head on over to Japan’s ancient capital, Kyoto! It’s roughly 2 hours and 40 minutes by train from Tokyo station to Kyoto station.

Once you’ve settled into your hotel, it’s time to explore Kyoto on foot. We recommend checking out Gion, Kyoto’s geisha district, and then crossing the river to Pontocho, home to many geiko houses, restaurants, and traditional tea houses. If you arrive early enough in the day, check out Nishiki Market in downtown Kyoto and gorge on delicious food.

If you’re up for a nightcap, Sake Ichi is a great little sake bar in Kyoto. Staff are extremely knowledgeable and friendly; we appreciated their explanation of aging sake and the differences in taste. Note that, if you do not speak Japanese, you will currently need to visit the bar on a weekday to be served.

Stay in Kyoto: We originally stayed at Gion Miyagawacho Grandereverie for our first two nights in Kyoto, which has since closed. Check out other options for where to stay in Kyoto here.

Day 7: Kyoto // Day Trip to Suntory Yamazaki Distillery

As Japanese whisky aficionados, you know we *had* to factor in a visit to Suntory Yamazaki whisky distillery during our two weeks in Japan! It’s an easy 14-minute train ride from Kyoto station to Yamazaki station, plus a 9-minute walk from the station to the distillery.

Be sure to take the paid distillery tour if time allows. There’s a Yamazaki Whisky Museum that’s free and full of interesting history and facts too (note that reservations are still required).

Belly up to the tasting bar and sample whisky from around the world, plus rare and limited editions. One of the most memorable experiences during our trip was when a group of Japanese people asked to take photos with us and our tasting flight at the distillery. We felt like mini celebrities for a hot second. Apparently they were amazed that we were sampling 8 different types of whisky at once? It’s all in a day’s work when it’s five o’clock here. 😂

We’ll write a full post on how to tour Suntory Yamazaki Distillery, but suffice it to say that if you call yourself a whisky fan in any sense of the word, you’ve got to get down here.

Day 8: Kyoto // Highlights of the Ancient City

It’s the day you’ve probably been waiting for: touring all of Kyoto’s highlights! To do so in a cost-efficient manner, we hired Mr. Doi. Naoki Doi has been providing private tours of Kyoto in English for over 30 years and has some pretty high caliber clientele (Holly Hunter and Bill Clinton, to name a few). You can customize what sights you’d like to see, and if you want him to guide you at the sites or do them on your own.

Make sure to visit Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion…

Fushimi Inari Taisha, an important Shinto shrine in southern Kyoto…

… and Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, which is beautiful, tranquil, and otherworldly.

After our 6-hour tour, Mr. Doi dropped us off at our new digs: a ryokan, or traditional Japanese inn with tatami-matted rooms and sliding doors. Breakfast and dinner were included in the price — and were essentially events in their own right — so we stayed in and had a leisurely dinner for the rest of the night.

Stay in Kyoto: We recommend staying at Kyokoyado Muromachi Yutone. You can book it here.

Day 9: Kyoto // Free Day

While we try to work in a “free day” into our trips to recharge and recalibrate, the timing of this particular free day was forced upon us. Typhoon Lan hit Kyoto, causing us to reschedule our plans. We ventured out briefly for lunch at Hafuu for some seriously mouthwatering wagyu beef:

And then made a quick stop at Ippodo Tea (not to be confused with Ippudo, another great ramen joint). The tea company can trace its origins all the way back to 1717! Staff assist you in selecting what type of tea you prefer, and then teach you how to brew it properly. You can order snacks to accompany your tea, or enjoy the brew by itself.

By then, the rain was coming down full force, so we retreated to the ryokan to sip more tea and read — and it turned out to be just what we needed. Never underestimate the joy of being fully present with those you love.

Stay in Kyoto: We recommend staying at Kyokoyado Muromachi Yutone. You can book it here.

Day 10: Kobe & Osaka // Sake Tasting and Steak

Sake Tasting in Kobe

Going to Japan without trying sake is like going to Paris and not seeing the Eiffel Tower. I mean, yeah, you could skip it, but in what universe would that make sense? (Unless you don’t drink, which makes this a bad analogy…whoops.)

Digression aside, if you want to try sake in Japan, you need to visit Kobe’s Nada district. Why? It’s the world’s top sake producing region — ’nuff said.

We’ll write a post on touring Kobe’s sake breweries soon, but our DIY tour included 3 main stops — Hakutsuru Sake Brewery Museum, Kikumasamune Sake Museum, and Sakuramasamune Sake — with plenty of samples at each.

Be sure to try some sake ice cream while you’re at the breweries. It tastes surprisingly good and not too alcoholic at all!

How to Find Kobe Beef… By Accident at the Last Minute

And now for the biggie: Kobe beef. Remember that nasty typhoon that hit and spoiled our plans? Yeah, we had to cancel our original dinner reservations in Kobe the previous night. Since the best restaurants in Kobe book up in advance, we scrambled to find a suitable alternative.

Ladies and gentlemen, may I present to you Steakland (yep, that’s it’s real name).Is it the best place for Kobe beef in the city? No. But is it an experience you’ll forget? Nope, you won’t.

Steakland is basically Benihana meets the Twilight Zone. Yep, you read that right. It’s a teppanyaki restaurant where your food is cooked in front of you (the Benihana part). But the restaurant is so huge that it encompasses multiple floors, and they all look freakin’ identical.

Staff told us our table was on the 7th floor, so we dutifully pressed “7” once we got in the elevator… only to stop at floors 4, 5, and 6 first with the *exact same* view and setup. It was déjà vu to the max, like something out of the Twilight Zone. Multiple patrons got lost (us silly gaijin, mainly).

That aside, the steak was still delicious and the service was quick and friendly. If you find yourself in Kobe without reservations, Steakland works.

Once you’re back from Kobe, take the 30-minute train ride from Kyoto to Osaka and get a good night’s sleep in Osaka.

Stay in Osaka: We recommend staying at Hotel Nikko Osaka. You can book it here.

Day 11: Day Trip to Miyajima

I’m not going to lie: doing a day trip from Osaka to Miyajima is ambitious. It’s about 3 hours each way using your Japan Rail Pass (shinkansen to Hiroshima Station, transfer there to the JR Sanyo Main Line for Miyajimaguchi Station, and then use the JR ferry).

Still, we knew we had to travel all this way to see the famous “floating” torii gate at high tide. Popularly known as Miyajima, it’s actually called Itsukushima, and is famous for Itsukushima Shrine (an UNESCO world heritage site). Expect a full post on how to visit at the right time soon.

Okonomiyaki

My only regret during our two weeks in Japan? Not spending any real time in Hiroshima. Given its historic significance, we really should have spent more time in Hiroshima itself instead of just using it as a springboard for Miyajima.

Guilt aside, we did try the most delicious okonomiyaki ever in Hiroshima. Known as “Japanese pizza” in the US, okonomiyaki is basically a Japanese pancake made with flour, eggs, shredded cabbage, meat and topped with a variety of condiments.

To get your fill, we recommend going to the second floor of the ASSE, a mall that’s directly connected to the JR Hiroshima station. You can find helpful information here. Make sure to visit the restaurant on the RIGHT in this photo and grab a seat at the counter to watch all of the cooking in action.

Explore Dotonbori in Osaka at Night

Though we really spent barely any time in Osaka, we *did* manage to make it to Dotonbori Street, which is renowned for its plethora of restaurants and crazy neon signs.

Fill up on some sizzling takoyaki, a ball-shaped snack with a wheat-based batter that’s typically filled with octopus. We recommend sampling it at Creo-Ru on Dotonbori Street for quick service and maximum flavor.

Dessert lovers, you will ADORE Pablo’s cheese tarts. Annoyingly cute theme song aside (the “Pablo” song playing at their bakery got stuck in my head for a solid four days), this custardy cheese tart is silky and rich — and so popular that you can even find it in Canada now!

Stay in Osaka: We recommend staying at Hotel Nikko Osaka. You can book it here.

Day 12: Tokyo // “Lost in Translation” and… Robots?

Take a morning train from Osaka to Tokyo, and aim to check in to your hotel around 3:30 PM.

Live Out Your “Lost in Translation” Dreams at Park Hyatt Tokyo’s New York Bar

Let’s get this out of the way early: yes, the Park Hyatt Tokyo hotel will be forever linked to Sofia Coppola’s 2003 film, “Lost in Translation.” The iconic hotel bar may have looked stunning in Coppola’s film, but is it really that classy and sophisticated in real life? Are the drinks any good? And, most importantly, is it worth a detour in your precious Tokyo itinerary?

The answer, it turns out, is a resounding yes. In other words, for good times, you’ll want to make it Suntory New York Bar time. Check out our honest review of our time at Park Hyatt Tokyo’s New York Bar.

Robot Restaurant

Robot Restaurant is so wacky, you have to see it to believe it. It’s like taking an acid-filled trip down the rabbit hole and landing on an alien planet filled with dinosaurs, laser lights, and robots. Lots and lots of robots.

Entertaining? Absolutely. Worth it? Yep, every penny.

Bar Hopping in Golden Gai

If you’re up for a final night of drinks, make sure to go bar hopping in Golden Gai. Not all bars welcome foreigners, but there’s still plenty to choose from. Bar Araku is particularly fun and affordable with its international feel and lack of a cover charge.

Stay in Tokyo: We recommend Hotel Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku — book it here.

Day 13: Tokyo // Shibuya and Harajuku

Congratulations — you’ve made it to your last full day in Japan! Store your bags at the hotel and get ready for a great final day in Tokyo.

Tonkatsu for Lunch

Eat lunch at Marugo Tonkatsu, which is supposed to be one of the best places for tonkatsu in the city. Tonkatsu usually has two cuts — hire, which is leaner, and rosu, which is thicker and juicier. We recommend the rosu as it’s packed with flavor.

The Famous Shibuya Crossing

Shibuya Crossing is another site that has to be seen to be believed. It’s a beautiful, almost hypnotic 60 seconds as a multitude of humanity simply crosses the street:

For the best views of Shibuya Crossing, go to this famous Starbucks and watch all of the action from the second floor window. Worth it.

Takeshita Street and Harajuku

Last but certainly not least, take some time to explore Takeshita Street and Harajuku in general. Shop to your heart’s content in the numerous trendy fashion boutiques and used clothes stores. While my wallet managed to get away unscathed, others were not so lucky. 😂

Day 14: Fly Home!

Sadly, it’s now time to leave Japan and head back home. There’s not much to do but relax and get ready to board your flight. But we have a feeling you’ll be back soon… 🇯🇵

If you liked this post, check out:

• • 10 Things That Surprised Us While Visiting Japan
  • Yunessun Spa Resort in Hakone, Japan: Or, You Too Can Bathe in Wine and Coffee
  • Drinks in Translation: Visiting New York Bar at the Park Hyatt Tokyo

Essential Info:
Where should you stay in Tokyo? Check out options here.
Where did I personally stay in Japan? Hotel Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku and Hotel Ryumeikan Tokyo in Tokyo, Gion Miyagawacho Grandereverie (which unfortunately has closed since we returned) and Kyokoyado Muromachi Yutone in Kyoto, and Hotel Nikko Osaka in Osaka. We enjoyed each of these properties.
Want a guidebook for Japan? I use Lonely Planet and Fodor’s.
What else have I written about Japan? Read my posts on Japan here.
What camera did I use for this post? I used our Olympus EM5 Mark II camera with this lens and (and my cell phone).
Have questions for me? Hit me up on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, or Pinterest!

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