I wiped the dripping sweat off of my brow, panting under the blistering morning sun. Pausing to take a swig of cool, refreshing water, I gazed up to the top of the mountain and was suddenly troubled by how tiny the hikers approaching the summit appeared.
You can’t stop now, I thought wearily. Remember what you promised yourself?
This day, out of all of our nine days together, was the one that I had dreaded the most on our recent trip to Israel. The second we received our trip itinerary from Honeymoon Israel back in March, I had studied it with the intensity of an American high schooler preparing for the SAT college entrance exams. Scrutinizing the document, I nodded approvingly as I noticed the expected “usual suspects.” A visit to the Western Wall in Jerusalem? Check. Floating in the Dead Sea? Check. And then I saw it:
Monday, May 30, 2016
Climb Masada via the Snake Path to visit Herod’s mountain palace and site of the Jewish Zealots’ last stand against the Roman legionnaires.
So why were we visiting Masada in the first place, and what exactly is it?
Masada, it turns out, is a nearly 2,000 year old desert fortress overlooking the Dead Sea that was built by King Herod the Great. In addition to building up lavish palaces, a bath house, and a swimming pool on top of the mountain, Herod had a pretty nifty system of cisterns and aqueducts. In fact, the cisterns were reputedly so large that they could hold enough water to supply a thousand people with enough water for 10 years. Suffice it to say, this guy was well hydrated in the hot, arid desert.
But Masada is more than just one of King Herod’s architectural achievements: it’s a symbol of resolve for the Israeli people and an important place of pilgrimage.
Around 72 AD, Masada served as the last refuge for Jews that were rebelling against the Roman Empire. The Romans built no less than eight siege camps around Masada—the remains of which can be seen from the summit even today—along with a siege ramp up the side of the mountain. When the Roman attack on the fortress was imminent, the rebel leaders discussed their dire situation and, rather than be enslaved by the Roman Empire, chose instead to kill themselves. The men drew lots and ten were selected to kill the others. Eventually, one of the ten was chosen to kill the other nine and then commit suicide. They burned their belongings but left their food behind so that the Romans would know that they had not perished of hunger, but rather of their own free will.
Model of what King Herod’s palace complex originally looked like
There are three ways to ascend Masada. The first is by cable car (pictured below), which was built in 1971 and takes visitors from the base of Masada to the top. The second is the Roman Ramp, which is accessed from the western side of the mountain. And the third way–the way we were supposed to take–was called the Snake Path, which was much steeper than the Roman Ramp and leaves from the eastern side of the mountain.
I must have Googled the phrase “Snake Path Masada difficulty” about fifty times before our arrival in Jerusalem. Travel bloggers provided delightful descriptions of their experiences on the trail, like “my legs were trembling like jelly” and “As I climbed, the dizziness and nausea got worse and worse. I felt as if I were in the midst of my own personal siege on Masada.”
Great. Just great.
In the days leading up to the adventure, I lulled myself into a false sense of security about my ability to complete the trek. We walk all the time in New York City! Surely it can’t be that bad. I routinely walk from Times Square down to the Flatiron district–I must be golden!
But the night before our climb up Masada, a strong sense of doubt snaked its way into my head. “I’ll just take the cable car up,” I sighed to my husband as we turned off the lights. “It’s not like I’m in the best shape, anyway.”
That, my friends, was a severe understatement.
Nearly a year ago, I found myself flat on my butt yet again during a hike leading up to Queen’s Bath, a natural tide pool in Kauai. Certainly it hadn’t helped that my good friend and I had shared a mai tai before said hike, leading my already questionable sense of balance into the gutter.
But as I watched her maneuvering through the slippery, muddy lava rocks ahead of me with ease, I couldn’t help feeling a sense of hatred for the activity I had once loved as a child. Ten-year-old me would dart up hills and race back down to my parents, urging them along on our hikes through Monterey and Big Sur in California; thirty-year-old me huffed and puffed, muttering angrily and kicking pebbles and sticks out of my way.
How had I come to this?
And so ten minutes before our bus pulled up to the Masada Visitor Center, I decided that yes, I will hike up the Snake Path, thank you very much. For it wasn’t just about the fear of missing out on an experience that nearly everyone else in our group planned to do. It was very much about redemption, about proving to myself–and by extension, somehow, to my friend, though she wouldn’t know it at the time–that I could actually climb up these steep trails successfully and regain my love for hiking in the process.
View of the Dead Sea from Masada
Things started out easy enough. Armed with plenty of water and making small talk with fellow group members, I strode confidently ahead on the gravelly terrain. I told our group’s rabbi that I wasn’t in shape, but was still hoping to get to the top unscathed.
“You’ll be totally fine,” she assured me before zipping off to the front of the pack.
Rabbi Jess (in red hat) says, “You’ll be fine!”
We climbed up our first few switchbacks simultaneously with hordes of teenagers climbing down the mountain, regaling each other with tales of how sexy Joshua’s hair is and how I can’t wait to get freaky with Megan tonight. (Listen, I took frequent breaks, so I heard one too many of these stupid 17-year-old anecdotes. At least I’ll have some good ideas for a future young adult novel.)
Fortunately, the teens were too engrossed in each other’s lives to mind a heaving, red-faced thirty-year-old perched on a large slab of reddish stone.
See all of those people? Yeah, lots of teenagers.
As we ascended, though, we gradually began to fall further behind our group. I paused for the umpteenth time to catch my breath, and then it hit me: my husband wasn’t wheezing the way I was.
“Hey, how are you not out of breath?” I called up to him dejectedly.
“All that running up and down stairs all day at my law office!” he yelled back.
Ugh. Figures.
Mr. Five O’Clock is apparently way more in shape than I realized.
We plodded on, joined by another couple and our Israeli security guard, Shlomi. A little more than halfway through the trek, I made the mistake of asking him how long it would take him to hike up the mountain if it wasn’t for us.
“Twenty minutes,” he responded without hesitation.
It had now been forty.
Are we there yet?
The more we climbed, the more out of reach the summit looked. I stopped and thought long and hard about turning around. My water supply was nearly out, yet I was drenched with sweat.
King Herod, maybe you could build an aqueduct down to my FACE right now, because I am in need of some more water. Stat.
But then we heard the melodic voice of our tour guide, Uri, calling down encouragement to us about how close we were to the top. And then I looked behind me at Shlomi, whose saintly patience manifested itself through the small smile on his face. My husband retraced his steps and held out his hand to me. “Just one more push,” he said softly. “You got this.”
Shlomi (center), our Israeli security guard, providing encouragement during the hike
And then, finally, I wasn’t looking up any more; I was looking out. Across the gorgeous, striking ruins of palaces and barracks atop a 1400-foot mountain. I had conquered the pain-in-the-ass, make-me-want-to-vomit Snake Path up Masada–and I had loved it. The phenomenal views were worth it alone, but the feeling of emerging triumphantly at the summit was a thrill I had long ago forgotten.
Victorious!
As I staggered in to the shaded platform where our group was huddled atop the mountain, I was greeted by applause and hugs from my fellow groupmates. People I had known for less than a week were suddenly my biggest cheerleaders.
The group waits calmly for the remaining stragglers to arrive
Yes, Masada is an important symbol of Jewish freedom, of their determination to be free in their own land. But to me, conquering Masada meant finally starting to reconnect with a part of myself that I had missed, the part that loved to hike and run wild. For this, I will be forever grateful.
Honeymoon Israel friends that Snake Path together, stay together.
Essential Masada Packing List
I’m happy to hear that so many of you want to hike up the Snake Path at Masada too! Here are some key items to pack for a successful hike:
- Water Bottle– Absolutely essential. Since my Masada hike, I’ve been using my Hydro Flask water bottle for every hike I’ve done.
- Sunscreen– Also essential, with the sun beating down on you.
- Trail Snacks– For all of you hangry hikers out there (myself included)!
- Lip Balm
- Sunglasses
- Facial Wipes– There’s no way around it: you’re gonna get sweaty. Facial wipes helped me get rid of the sweat.
- Clothing:
- Hiking Boots– Hiking Masada definitely isn’t the time for flip flops. Even my sneakers were barely cutting it on the trail.
- Hiking Pants
- Hiking Shirt
- Socks
- Jacket (Layers are key! If you hike at sunrise, it’ll be colder than you expect.)
- Camera & Camera Bag for all of the memories.
Essential Info:
Where should you stay in Jerusalem? Check out options here.
Want a guidebook for Israel? I use Fodor’s and Lonely Planet.
What else have I written about Israel? Check out these posts!
Have questions for me? Hit me up on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, or Pinterest!
Did you like this post? Pin it! ↓↓
Pingback: Jerusalem vs. Tel Aviv: The Ultimate Israeli Cocktail Showdown – It's Five O'Clock Here
Pingback: 2017 Will Rock (Or: I Finally Wrote a 2016 Recap) - It's Five O'Clock Here
Mandy Williams
I hiked the Masada in Dec 2016 Note I’m 71 years young
I work out 3 days an week at 24 fitness.
Julianne
Hi Mandy, that’s awesome! Congrats! When I hiked Masada, I didn’t work out at all. Since then, I’ve been going to the gym, so I think I could do it faster now 🙂
Douglas McLaughlin
I’ll be there in a few days!
Julianne
Hi Douglas, very cool! You’ll love Masada. It was one of the most powerful experiences I’ve had (for a number of reasons). I hope it’s not too too hot when you hike up (if you choose to hike the Snake Path)!
Susan Ripley
I can totally relate to this! I love to hike but am very inconsistent with exercise. Sometimes I’m in the groove and exercise everyday and sometimes I ….don’t. I’ve been on a few hikes where I overestimated my fitness and ended up really struggling. At least it motivates me to do better next time!
Ivy
Good for you to making it up there! That looks like enough cardio for the entire year haha. I don’t think I’d mind this hike but that HEAT would really get to me… You should bring your hubby to do the Grouse Grind if you guys are ever in Vancouver!
Andi
I applaud your effort, but seriously for me? I’d be all about the cable car. I have faced my difficult hikes, but I ain’t doing it in the heat! Giving me 60’s and 70’s or even cold weather if I am all bundled up, but desert hike, now way! You go girl!
Jen
I’m so proud of you for deciding to take the hike! As you’ve already noticed it gets harder with time so I hope you take every hike while you can. Get it girl!
Juliann
Good for you! That looks like quite an accomplishment. I loved your description of studying your itinerary as thought you were studying for college SATs. I do that, too. Reading other descriptions of this difficult climb would have made me dread it, too. But like you, once I committed, I would have seen it through. But now I know I may want to leave it off my itinerary. 😉
Ann
I’d love to climb Masada, but I know I’d have been there with you — I would have to take my time and take breaks. I need to spend more time in the gym, too :-(. I do love that you did it though — it’s one of those experiences no one can ever take back. You did it!!
Katie Williams
The fact that you even took great photos is incredible! I was DYING…literally DYING with a red face and all. I seriously didn’t think it would be that hard either, but what a view at the top! Next time I take the tram. 🙂
Allison Wong
I’d struggle on the snake path too as I have no stamina. Cable car is probably the easiest idea but the satisfaction after the hike must be incredible and the views along the hike are so worth it.
Ashley Hubbard
Haha I love this! I also loooove hiking but find I’m way out of shape lately. I definitely need to up my game because I’m stubborn and will try to do something even if I shouldn’t.
Cat
Yay you made it! So proud of you, Julianne. Nothing is more satisfying than conquering a summit. Even though it sounded like a brutal process, the sense of accomplishment definitely made it all worth it!
Jenn and Ed Coleman
Way to go Julianne. It’s awesome when you push yourself and rise to the challenge. Just the other day, one of my co-workers was telling me about the history of Masada. I was enthralled. It’s an amazing place in history.
Randy
ShalomJulianne, i am 65 years old and completed the snake trail @ Masada yesterday March 2nd. I can so relate to your experience. I have hiked Diamond Head and Devil’s Hole @ Niagara Falls. .Neither compares to the Snake Trail. Upon reaching the top of Masada, I felt a major sense of accomplishment, and a complete refreshing of my mind and body.I really was an awesome experience.
Julianne
Shalom, Randy! Congratulations on completing the Snake Path – that’s awesome!! I haven’t hiked Devil’s Hole, but we’ve done Diamond Head, and I agree with you – it is nowhere near as difficult as hiking up Masada. Reaching the summit feels amazing precisely because it’s such a big accomplishment. Congrats again and have a great time in Israel!
Sherrie Siler
Love reading your story I’m 63 and 2 weeks ago I conquered masada 3 days after that I climbed mt Arbel.. Quite a sense of accomplishment I had but I can tell you this I will never climb my Arbel again!
Julianne
Hi Sherrie, that’s AWESOME! Wow! We didn’t have time for Mt Arbel, but it sounds like quite the hike 🙂
Lillie Stanton
You go girl! My husband and I along with a group of people traveled to Israel in September 2017,and what an once in a lifetime trip!! We visited Masada, but we all took the cable car up. What an awesome view. I’m glad you took the Snake path challenge and succeeded. It was very very hot I. September.
Julianne
Hi Lillie, thanks for stopping by, and thanks for your encouragement! So glad you were able to visit Masada, whether it’s up the cable car or hiking. Israel is incredible, isn’t it?
Ron B
Amazing story, so well written. I am 54 and overweight. I quit smoking almost a year ago. I was very active in my youth and even climbed Mount Sinai in summer camp in ’78. But I’m worried. I guess I’ll take it slow. The time you took to get up there might seem like speedy Gonzalez compared to me. We plan on getting there crazy early to get to the top to see the sunrise. Thanks for sharing this and your essentials list is great.
Julianne
Hi Ron, thanks so much for your kind words. The only person you’re in a race against is yourself — no matter how slow or fast you are, you can do it!! And congratulations on quitting smoking too. Sunrise is the perfect time to summit Masada; it’s a memory you’ll never forget. Have a wonderful hike!
Ron B
Thanks for the encouragement. Not sure if I missed it in your story but any idea how long the hike is? 2 miles? 3 miles? 4?
Julianne
Hi Ron, good point – I don’t think I did mention it. I believe it is 2 km (1.2 miles) one way — it may not sound like much, but the switchbacks and intense heat from the sun make a difference in the difficulty level. We started around 8:30 AM (after sunrise) and the heat was brutal. Climbing up before sunrise will really give you a leg up on that and will help tremendously!
Fabien
Well, congratulations! When I went, there were flash floodings along the road so we only reached Masada around Noon (rather than at sunrise) and that is definitely a time when you just can’t try hiking, when it’s 40+ Celsius! The view from the cable car is just as nice :p
Julianne
Thanks, Fabien! Wow, flash flooding? I definitely agree that noon isn’t the time to hike up Masada. I’m planning to do the cable car next time too 🙂
Jerry Tatar
I have 2 artificial hips, had prostate cancer surgery 3 years ago and rotator cuff surgery last October. I turn 70 this coming November and, as my birthday gift to myself, hiked Masada today with my daughter who recently made aliyah. It is as you describe – and the feeling of completing the hike is wonderful.
Julianne
Congratulations on summiting Masada with your daughter, Jerry! What a beautiful experience, especially after all that you’ve been through. Thanks for sharing your story with us!
Jenny
This is a tough hike, no doubt, but well worth the effort. If two 40-something, not-in-horrible-shape-but-not-in-tip-top-shape-either parents and their three kids (ages 13 and 10-year-old twins) can make it to the top in the middle of summer, most people can probably do the same. A good pair of sneakers will suffice, along with ample water…and be sure to go early. As in 6am early. Take short rest breaks along the way and then enjoy the views and the historic significance from the top. Oh, and try not to carry too much with you or hike too fast…or you’ll end up like my husband, heaving by the side of the trail with the tour guide smiling wryly and telling you to take the kids ahead and not to worry because he’d seen this before. 😉